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A Costa Rican Wave is Born
by
John J. Abate


The giant Raptor swoops down over the Pacific, and with iron-clad talons, he grasps Mother Earth's ocean belly and wrenches her ripples upward to form large crests that reach to the sky. Thus, a Costa Rican wave is born.

During my last visit to Costa Rica, I truly experienced a country, with it's oceans, people, and geography so beautiful and serene. And if waves are what you seek in your travel adventures, the land of the Tico awaits you.

For me, surfing over the years never quite matched the magnitude of the time I spent in the water during a short summer in Costa Rica. Surfing became a state of mind there. Waiting patiently in the water, atop and floating on my board for the next wave set to roll in. As with many of the surf breaks in Costa Rica, often times you find you're among only a few participants in the water on any given day. It's as though the beach is offering itself exclusively to you. No crowds, screaming children, or push carts scampering along the coast.

Only warm sun rays, lush tropical rainforest, and an occasional fish swimming at the bottom of your feet. This is a time of peace; a vortex of inner reflection; swaying gently up and down as the current tugs you on your board. Focused and determined, silent yet anxious for the wave. Blending anxiety with calamity, Costa Rica enhances the surfer's aptitude toward an overall view of what this sport really is… a state of mind.

Along the Western Pacific coast, such popular spots such as Jaco Beach and Playa Manuel Antonio generate larger crowds due to the tourism boom which has taken up roots here. Generally the waves are smaller and only larger swells will show big waves. These resort communities offer an abundance of accommodations and activities other than surfing. Travel South to Dominical where the wave is consistent, with good left and right points, and plenty of rustic beachside cabinas which expose a true surf safari feel to this area. Beware of the transient surf crowds here though, Dominical is on the rise to becoming the next popular resort area.

From Dominical, bump along farther South to Pavones, which boasts one of the world's longest lefts. If seclusion and fantastic shaped waves are what you seek, pack up your camping gear, mosquito nets, and head for Playa Naranjo (Witch's Rock) and Playa Negro (Black Beach). Be prepared for a long hike, paddle, and swim to this Mecca of solid head high waves. Virtually uninhabited during the winter season, Playa Negro and Playa Naranjo pump long solid tubes with frequent B offshore winds.

Mix some culture with the Rastafarai and trek East to Puerto Viejo. 'The Caribbean' side of Costa Rica is a definite must see. Nestled among this hip community are small cabinas, bistros, and clubs. Puerto Viejo also calls to the surfer's attention the famed 'Salsa Brava'.

A thick, voluminous, and very powerful tube which is generated mostly between the months of December and April. Experts Only! This pipe crashes down on some very powerful (and shallow) coral reef, and negotiating your way in and out is quite tricky as well. Follow the trail along the beach and dirt road South to 'Beach Break' where the wave is more subtle.

These spots, only to name a few, will lighten your heart and free your spirit to the waters' of Costa Rica. When I returned home to the Eastern Atlantic, my friends were bobbing around in 65 degree water. I thought my heart was going to go into cardiac arrest!

In all, a Costa Rica surf trip is a mode of expression. The locals are friendly and easy going, often times inquisitive of your travels. You don't feel threatened or harassed in the water because you're not a local, yet a courteous and appreciative attitude makes things only easier for the traveler…and hopefully you too will find your peace and state of mind in Costa Rica! Pura Vida!

John J. Abate