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The giant Raptor swoops down over the Pacific, and with
iron-clad talons, he grasps Mother Earth's ocean belly
and wrenches her ripples upward to form large crests
that reach to the sky. Thus, a Costa Rican wave is born.
During my last visit to Costa Rica, I truly experienced
a country, with it's oceans, people, and geography so
beautiful and serene. And if waves are what you seek
in your travel adventures, the land of the Tico awaits
you.
For me, surfing over the years never quite matched the
magnitude of the time I spent in the water during a
short summer in Costa Rica. Surfing became a state of
mind there. Waiting patiently in the water, atop and
floating on my board for the next wave set to roll in.
As with many of the surf breaks in Costa Rica, often
times you find you're among only a few participants
in the water on any given day. It's as though the beach
is offering itself exclusively to you. No crowds, screaming
children, or push carts scampering along the coast.
Only warm sun rays, lush tropical rainforest, and an
occasional fish swimming at the bottom of your feet.
This is a time of peace; a vortex of inner reflection;
swaying gently up and down as the current tugs you on
your board. Focused and determined, silent yet anxious
for the wave. Blending anxiety with calamity, Costa
Rica enhances the surfer's aptitude toward an overall
view of what this sport really is… a state of mind.
Along the Western Pacific coast, such popular spots
such as Jaco Beach and Playa Manuel Antonio generate
larger crowds due to the tourism boom which has taken
up roots here. Generally the waves are smaller and only
larger swells will show big waves. These resort communities
offer an abundance of accommodations and activities
other than surfing. Travel South to Dominical where
the wave is consistent, with good left and right points,
and plenty of rustic beachside cabinas which expose
a true surf safari feel to this area. Beware of the
transient surf crowds here though, Dominical is on the
rise to becoming the next popular resort area.
From Dominical, bump along farther South to Pavones,
which boasts one of the world's longest lefts. If seclusion
and fantastic shaped waves are what you seek, pack up
your camping gear, mosquito nets, and head for Playa
Naranjo (Witch's Rock) and Playa Negro (Black Beach).
Be prepared for a long hike, paddle, and swim to this
Mecca of solid head high waves. Virtually uninhabited
during the winter season, Playa Negro and Playa Naranjo
pump long solid tubes with frequent B offshore winds.
Mix some culture with the Rastafarai and trek East to
Puerto Viejo. 'The Caribbean' side of Costa Rica
is a definite must see. Nestled among this hip community
are small cabinas, bistros, and clubs. Puerto Viejo
also calls to the surfer's attention the famed 'Salsa
Brava'.
A thick, voluminous, and very powerful tube which is
generated mostly between the months of December and
April. Experts Only! This pipe crashes down on some
very powerful (and shallow) coral reef, and negotiating
your way in and out is quite tricky as well. Follow
the trail along the beach and dirt road South to 'Beach
Break' where the wave is more subtle.
These spots, only to name a few, will lighten your heart
and free your spirit to the waters' of Costa Rica. When
I returned home to the Eastern Atlantic, my friends
were bobbing around in 65 degree water. I thought my
heart was going to go into cardiac arrest!
In all, a Costa Rica surf trip is a mode of expression.
The locals are friendly and easy going, often times
inquisitive of your travels. You don't feel threatened
or harassed in the water because you're not a local,
yet a courteous and appreciative attitude makes things
only easier for the traveler…and hopefully you too will
find your peace and state of mind in Costa Rica! Pura
Vida!
John J. Abate |